| In 2010, most men today hate wearing suits. | | | | on the trousers. |
| There are two reasons for this. Many men grew | | | | Trousers whether plain front or pleated front |
| up wearing jeans, t-shirts and running shoes. As | | | | need to fit in the waist, crotch and the seat. The |
| such, any "dress" clothes seem uncomfortable to | | | | length will need to be tailored. If the pockets pull, |
| them. Secondly, men who wore "dress" clothes | | | | the trousers are too small. If the pants droop |
| from time to time in their youth wore poorly | | | | much below the belly button, then the wait is too |
| constructed, poorly fitted suits, jackets and | | | | big. You need a dress belt and dress shoes to |
| trousers made out of inexpensive materials. The | | | | wear when trying on the suit trousers (not |
| perfect interview suit must fit right, be the | | | | running shoes!). More on that below. |
| correct color, the proper fabric and feel | | | | Tailoring. |
| comfortable. | | | | The suit jacket should be tailored in several areas. |
| The Cut. | | | | The back should not have a bubble, wrinkle or |
| There are two acceptable cuts for men's suits. | | | | hump. The collar (or "cape") and lapels should lie |
| These are the traditional European cut which is a | | | | flat and not "wing out". The sleeves should EACH |
| bit fitted and the classic American cut which is | | | | be measured from the tip of the thumb. Whether |
| looser and more boxy. Both cuts are available | | | | to show some cuff shows is a matter of |
| today in two or three-button jackets (never wear | | | | personal taste. I prefer to show a little shirt cuff. |
| one or four buttons). The American suit is usually | | | | Nothing else on the suit jacket should need to be |
| more traditional looking. The European suit is more | | | | tailored if it is the right size and cut. |
| fitted and looks tailored. While I like and wear | | | | The trousers must fit at the waist. Try them on |
| double breasted suits, they are not appropriate | | | | with a dress belt. They also must fit at the seat. |
| for interviews - even with law firms or the State | | | | Try to sit in them unless you stand all day. They |
| Department. | | | | should not pull in the front. The length of the |
| The Right Color. | | | | trousers is important. Dress shoes are necessary |
| There are two colors that are acceptable for | | | | to get the proper fit. Running shoes or flip-flops |
| men's suits: dark blue and gray. The blue is navy | | | | are not to be worn when getting fitted for an |
| blue. Grays in dark (or charcoal) and medium are | | | | interview suit. Some men prefer the trousers to |
| fine. Light gray is questionable for interviews. The | | | | just touch the top of the shoes with NO break |
| suits can be solid, pin stripe or chalk stripe. | | | | (think of a dent in the front crease). This looks |
| Regardless, they should look classic and muted - | | | | best with cuffs on the trousers. Some men like |
| not like those worn by race track enthusiasts or | | | | to have a slight break in the front of the trousers. |
| mob bosses. | | | | This looks best with a plain hem and no cuffs. It is |
| Fabric. | | | | a matter of personal choice and style. Too big a |
| The best fabric is year round weight 100% wool. | | | | break looks sloppy and says the suit is cheap or |
| In the dead of winter heavier wool is acceptable. | | | | does not fit right. |
| Summer weight wool or even poplin (dressy | | | | After Tailoring. |
| cotton) can be work in late June, July and August. | | | | After the tailoring is complete, try on the entire |
| A very small percentage of polyester is | | | | suit with a dress shirt and shoes again. Make sure |
| acceptable for strength. The fabric should not | | | | it has been pressed. Try on the jacket and |
| shine or have a patterned texture. | | | | trousers. Look at them in the 3-way mirror. Then |
| The Right (Comfortable) Fit. | | | | take off the jacket and look at the trousers front |
| For a man's jacket to fit properly in must be the | | | | and back. If you see any wrinkles, bags or pulls or |
| right size and cut. Also, it must be tailored to | | | | if the sleeves or legs are uneven have the tailor |
| adjust it in various places. Try on suit jackets until | | | | mark it again and have the suit sent back for |
| you find one that is comfortable in the back, | | | | additional adjustments. When trying it on again, |
| chest and shoulders with the top (if two button) | | | | remember the dress shirt and shoes too. |
| or middle (if three button) button closed. The | | | | Start 2010 with a properly tailored suit. The right |
| fingers should be able to just curl under the hem | | | | cut, color and fabric when matched with a crisp |
| (bottom) of the jacket if it is the right length. You | | | | dress shirt, a traditional patterned or striped tied, |
| MUST wear a dress shirt to try on a suit jacket. | | | | conservative belt and well-shined dress shoes |
| A polo or tee-shirt will not do. If the jacket fits | | | | project an image that says all the right things |
| properly in the chest, shoulders and back (look at | | | | about the candidate at any interview. Confident, |
| the 3-way mirror in the dressing room), now try | | | | world class resume in hand, the rest is up to you! |