| Firenze in December, one of my favorite things | | | | delicious delicacies. The incomparable olive oil and |
| on Earth. Humidity suddenly all but evaporates | | | | delectable wines, exquisite cheeses, honey, and of |
| once away from the Arno, that crisp, clean scent | | | | course pastries make this fair just as stimulating |
| fills the air, and for just a few weeks, international | | | | to the taste buds as it is visually. |
| tourism is more or less directed elsewhere. The | | | | Something not only tasty, but different, is the |
| first 3 weeks of December are generally dead as | | | | annual German Christmas market held in Piazza |
| far as regards visitors in many Italian cities and | | | | Santa Croce from the 3-21st of December. Open |
| Christmas week is of course monopolized by | | | | nightly until 23:00, this is the place for all German |
| Rome, if anything. But the fun doesn't start with | | | | gastronomical specialties and handcrafts. Don't |
| Christmas, and the lack of international tourists | | | | worry however, traditional Italian fare is sold right |
| only makes this one of the best times to really | | | | alongside its German counterparts. The whole |
| sink your teeth into Italy. | | | | experience is nicely complimented by a lovely |
| Like in the US, the true Noel season begins at the | | | | carousel and special touches like hot spiced wine, |
| end of November and in this case runs at full | | | | sauerkraut, and fried potatoes. |
| steam through the 6th of January, Epiphany. | | | | As always the nearby towns have similar versions |
| Boasting no less than 14 separate Christmas | | | | of these fairs, a notable one generally being held in |
| markets, Firenze takes their holiday season | | | | Prato from about the week before Christmas |
| seriously. One of the biggest spectacles is the | | | | until Christmas itself, and then from about New |
| house of Babbo Natale, or the House of Father | | | | Year until Epiphany itself, the true end of the |
| Christmas. A family event held at the Leopolda | | | | Italian holiday season. |
| Station near Porta al Prato, the station is made to | | | | Between Christmas Eve and at least 2 days after |
| look like the North Pole, highlights of which are | | | | New Year, most functional businesses save a |
| children's activities, music, dining, sweets (the | | | | select few close down, thus, it's best to get all |
| chocolate village is a major draw), and of course, | | | | shopping of any kind done by December 23rd. |
| the traditional Nativity scene and mailing letters to | | | | Christmas is traditionally celebrated with a dinner |
| Santa. | | | | sans red meat, and in the South the famous |
| Around the same time is the Suvereto wild boar | | | | "Dinner of Seven Fishes" is often served. Not just |
| festival, held near Livorno, and is major regional | | | | a Southern thing, families all over the country |
| draw for all carnivorous types. | | | | serve this spectacular feast on Christmas Eve, |
| Though not exactly a local staple, some families | | | | and if one has the opportunity to attend, this is |
| still celebrate December 13th, Santa Lucia Day. In | | | | not to be missed. |
| nearby Siena, December 13th is an actual event, | | | | And where's the best place to stay while you lose |
| with outdoor pottery markets, poetry festivals, | | | | yourself in Florentine holiday revelry? Well, if |
| church ceremonies and more. Beautiful whether or | | | | there's no friend, relative, or little Italian |
| not in times of festival, Siena is quite convenient, | | | | grandmother around to host and cook for you, |
| and an excellent day trip option. In mid-December | | | | the next best thing is to absorb the feel of the |
| Siena also holds its olive oil festival, where one | | | | next best thing and at least pick a centrally |
| gets to sample the spoils of the season's first | | | | located residence. Once the private home of |
| crop to a backdrop of music, dancing, and plenty | | | | aristocrats, the Niccolini Historic Residence has |
| of holiday revelry. | | | | since been converted into a few very unique |
| December 8th however, the Feast of the | | | | rooms, preserving their décor to evoke |
| Immaculate Conception, is the real feast day, | | | | the feel of bygone eras, while offering only the |
| honored nationally by the closing of many public | | | | maximum in modern comfort. Wifi, a/c, satellite |
| offices and banks, and the decoration of public | | | | tv, location in the city center, and a caring staff |
| Christmas trees. This is somewhat Italy's Black | | | | available 12 hours a day make this the perfect |
| Friday; everything useful is closed so time to shop! | | | | home base for soaking in Firenze's inspiring history |
| Shops often run extended hours on December | | | | and hitting the holiday markets. |
| 8th, much to the delight of holiday shoppers, | | | | The concierges and general staff at Niccolini really |
| browsers, and tourists alike. General holiday | | | | stood out for me during my stay as they were |
| decoration/celebration begins now, complete with | | | | ready to help with anything at all, even at a |
| light displays, decorated trees, public nativity | | | | moments notice. From arranging massages and |
| scenes, and parades on the 8th of December | | | | tours to upgrading my room (they will do this |
| itself. | | | | based on availability, which is really considerate) to |
| Antique lovers can delight in the annual mid | | | | one with a fantastic view, to booking cooking |
| December Antique Fair held at Fortezza da Basso | | | | tours and wine cellar visits, they're prepared to do |
| in the center of town. A medieval fort with a | | | | the thinking and dirty work so you can relax and |
| huge garden area, this locale often hosts around | | | | actually enjoy a stress free holiday. Given the |
| 120 or so stands full of antique furniture, | | | | general elegance one may not expect it, but this |
| knick-knacks, keepsakes, clothing, and jewelry. | | | | hotel is also not just cat but dog friendly, so four |
| Afficionados of vintage wear will find themselves | | | | legged friends don't need to stay home while you |
| in paradise here. | | | | shop 'til you drop. |
| December 8th and 9th, only steps from the | | | | An elegant hotel with a fantastic staff, in the |
| magnificent duomo, is the Fierucolina | | | | center of one of Italy's loveliest cities at one of |
| dell'Immacolata, held in Piazza SS. Annunziata. An | | | | the most festive times of year and yet another |
| artisans market, people both from town and the | | | | opportunity to feast on local dishes? Especially at |
| surrounding countryside and villages all flock in to | | | | a time of year when both traveling and |
| showcase their wares. Knit items, carvings, | | | | accommodations tend to cost less? Why pass it |
| paintings, pottery, toys, and anything hand crafted | | | | up! |
| is sold side by side some of the region's most | | | | |